KANG YATSE II + DZO JONGO
Expedition OverviewThe climb
Staged from the expansive high plateau of Nimaling in Ladakh's Markha Valley, this twin summit expedition links two premier Himalayan six-thousanders into one expedition. At 6,250 metres and 6,280 metres respectively, Kang Yatse II and Dzo Jongo offer contrasting mountaineering styles: an expansive glaciated snow dome followed by an exposed, jagged knife-edge crest. The objective suits ambitious alpinists who possess prior experience above 5,000 metres and want maximum summit exposure from a single high base camp without descending between climbs.
Your itinerary ascends through the Markha canyon over seven days to establish a central summit staging base at 4,850 metres. The crux involves enduring two demanding alpine summit pushes separated by a single mandatory active recovery day. You depart at midnight for Kang Yatse II, navigating 1,400 vertical metres of sustained thirty-five to forty degree névé snow slopes. Forty-eight hours later, you launch for Dzo Jongo, climbing steep frozen scree and an exposed forty-five degree knife-edge summit arête before crossing Kongmaru La back to Leh.
Day by day
A thirteen-day dual-summit campaign in the Markha Valley, establishing an alpine base at Nimaling to claim both Kang Yatse II and Dzo Jongo in a single window.
Sleeping altitude, night by night
Markha Valley progression curve to KANG YATSE II + DZO JONGO summit ridge
Arrive at Kushok Bakula Rimpochee Airport. Transfer to your Leh hotel for mandatory complete rest. Team medical officers record resting pulse oximetry and vitals.
What's included
All climbing permits, high-altitude infrastructure, Sherpa support, and logistics for two consecutive 6,000m summits are fully included from Leh to Leh.
Included
- Dual IMF climbing permits & peak fees:Official Indian Mountaineering Foundation expedition clearances and peak royalties for both Kang Yatse II and Dzo Jongo.
- High-ratio mountain guide leadership:IMF-qualified mountain leaders and high-altitude Sherpa guides operating at a dedicated 1:2 guide-to-climber ratio.
- Central Base Camp infrastructure at Nimaling:Heavy-duty 4-season geodesic mountain tents, sub-zero insulated floor mats, and wind-shielded heated dining dome.
- Full endurance nutritional catering:Three hot high-calorie meals daily, trail energy packs, continuous boiled mineral water, and recovery electrolytes.
- Dual-peak climbing ropes & hardware:Dynamic climbing ropes, static fixed lines, snow stakes, deadman anchors, and ice screws for both summit routes.
- Comprehensive emergency medical staging:Dual medical oxygen cylinders with demand valves, hyperbaric Gamow chamber, pulse oximeters, and satellite SOS communicator.
Not included
- Comprehensive mountaineering insurance:Compulsory travel and medical policy covering search, rescue, and emergency helicopter evacuation up to 6,500 metres.
- Flights to and from Leh:Domestic airfare between your origin airport and Kushok Bakula Rimpochee Airport (IXL) in Leh.
- Personal mountaineering boots & crampons:Rigid or semi-rigid climbing boots and 12-point crampons (available to rent from our Leh Gear Locker).
- -25°C sleeping bag & down suit:Extreme sub-zero down sleeping bag and alpine down jacket (available to rent from our gear depot).
- Personal climbing hardware:Climbing helmet, mountaineering harness, and walking ice axe (available to rent from our locker).
- Meals in Leh city:Lunches and dinners in Leh during acclimatisation days and after returning from the mountains.
What to pack, and what you can rent
Pack personal moisture-wicking base layers, technical alpine outerwear, and cold-weather clothing using our comprehensive kit list. High-grade mountaineering hardware—including 6,000m/8,000m double boots, crampons, ice axes, and sub-zero down sleeping bags—can be fitted and rented directly from our Leh Base HQ locker.
Booking & Cancellation Policies
Payment
A 25% non-refundable deposit secures your place on the expedition roster. The remaining balance of 75% is due exactly 30 days prior to Day 1 arrival in Leh. Payments can be completed by bank transfer or card.
If you cancel
Cancellations made more than 45 days before departure receive a 75% refund of total fee. Between 44 and 30 days, 50% is refunded. Within 30 days of Day 1, fees are non-refundable as permits, rations, and logistics are committed.
If we cancel
If Ridge Recon Unit cancels an expedition before departure due to military border restrictions, force majeure, or regulatory closures, you receive a 100% refund or full transfer to any future expedition within 24 months.
Common questions
Specific operational guidance for Kang Yatse II (6,250m)
You must have prior experience on high Himalayan treks above 5,000 metres or a previous 6,000m summit attempt. Back-to-back summit days require sustained endurance, mental tenacity, and familiarity with crampons on both snow slopes and rocky ridges.
Ready to claim two 6,000m summits in one expedition?
Consult our veteran expedition leaders to evaluate your endurance profile and gear readiness for this double-summit campaign.
If this one is not right
Compare elevation profiles, duration, and terrain demands across alternative Himalayan itineraries.
Kang Yatse II
Focuses purely on the glaciated snow dome of Kang Yatse II without the secondary climb of Dzo Jongo. Ideal for a single focused summit attempt.
Dzo Jongo
A single summit climb dedicated exclusively to the knife-edge western ridge of Dzo Jongo, with more buffer days and a relaxed pace.
Kang Yatse I + II Massif
Combines the snow dome of Kang Yatse II with the technical 50-degree ice headwall of Kang Yatse I. Designed for advanced technical climbers.