DZO JONGO
Expedition OverviewThe climb
Rising above the eastern rim of the Nimaling plateau in the upper Markha Valley, Dzo Jongo East is an aesthetic six-thousand-metre mountaineering objective. At 6,280 metres, its shattered rocky crest presents a dramatic alternative to the rounded snow dome of neighbouring Kang Yatse II. The climb suits confident mountain trekkers who want the exposure of a sharp alpine arête without the objective hazards of vertical ice headwalls. You trek along the Markha River through high Buddhist hamlets before ascending to high camp above the vast summer pastures.
Your itinerary ascends through Skiu, Markha, and Thochungtse over six days, reaching Dzo Jongo Base Camp at 5,300 metres with dedicated technical gear training. The crux arrives on summit morning with an alpine departure around one in the morning into biting sub-zero winds. You climb for eight to ten hours across steep frozen scree and a forty-five degree névé crest, gaining 980 vertical metres to reach the narrow summit arête. Roped teams navigate the knife-edge ridge safely before descending back to camp.
Day by day
A ten-day alpine trek through the Markha Valley, establishing high camp at 5,300 metres before the dawn ridge ascent to the 6,280-metre summit of Dzo Jongo.
Sleeping altitude, night by night
Markha Valley progression curve to DZO JONGO summit ridge
Arrive at Leh Airport. Transfer directly to the team hotel for mandatory rest. Begin hydration protocols and conduct initial baseline pulse oximetry monitoring to begin physiological altitude adaptation.
What's included
All high-altitude mountain infrastructure from Leh airport reception to summit return is provided, including IMF permits, camping gear, and emergency medical kit.
Included
- IMF climbing permits & environmental fees:Official Indian Mountaineering Foundation expedition permit, peak royalties, and Hemis National Park conservation fees.
- Qualified mountain leadership (1:3 ratio):Certified IMF/HAWS mountain leaders and experienced climbing Sherpa guides maintaining a strict 1:3 ratio.
- Full camping & high-camp infrastructure:High-altitude 4-season alpine tents, insulated sub-zero sleeping mats, and weather-resistant dining mess tent.
- Complete expedition catering:Nutritious freshly prepared meals, trail packed lunches, boiled drinking water, and high-energy hot drinks at camp.
- Group technical climbing gear:Dynamic climbing ropes, snow stakes, deadmen anchors, and collective technical ascent rigging.
- Comprehensive emergency medical kit:Emergency supplementary oxygen cylinders, digital pulse oximeters, trauma kit, and satellite SOS device.
Not included
- Personal climbing boots & technical gear:Double mountaineering boots, crampons, ice axe, harness, and carabiners (rentable at Leh Base HQ).
- Mandatory mountaineering insurance:Travel insurance covering high-altitude mountaineering and emergency helicopter evacuation up to 6,500 metres.
- Flights to and from Leh:Airfare to Kushok Bakula Rimpochee Airport (IXL) in Leh.
- Guide and support staff gratuities:Customary tips pooled and shared directly among guides, cooks, and horsemen at trip completion.
- Single room supplement in Leh:Private room upgrades in Leh before and after the mountain expedition phase.
- Personal medical supplies:Personal prescriptions, preventative blister pads, Diamox, and personal medications.
What to pack, and what you can rent
Pack personal moisture-wicking base layers, technical alpine outerwear, and cold-weather clothing using our comprehensive kit list. High-grade mountaineering hardware—including 6,000m/8,000m double boots, crampons, ice axes, and sub-zero down sleeping bags—can be fitted and rented directly from our Leh Base HQ locker.
Booking & Cancellation Policies
Payment
A 25% non-refundable deposit confirms your roster placement. Balance is payable 45 days prior to arrival in Leh.
If you cancel
Cancellations outside 45 days forfeit deposit. 45–30 days forfeits 50% of fee. Under 30 days, no refund is granted.
If we cancel
If RRU cancels due to civil restrictions or severe political disruption, 100% of fees paid are credited to future departures.
Common questions
Specific operational guidance for Kang Yatse II (6,250m)
The crux is a narrow, exposed 45° snow-and-rock ridge spanning the final 200 vertical metres. Climbers are short-roped in small teams with fixed lines placed along the steepest sections. It requires steady balance and crampon confidence on mixed terrain.
Ready to traverse the knife-edge ridge of Dzo Jongo?
Speak directly with an RRU mountain guide to review your alpine fitness and reserve your team slot.
If this one is not right
Compare elevation profiles, duration, and terrain demands across alternative Himalayan itineraries.
Kang Yatse II
A neighboring peak on the Nimaling plateau offering a broad glaciated snow dome ascent rather than a sharp rocky ridge, ideal for climbers preferring open snow slopes.
UT Kangri
A more direct 6,000m objective near Rumtse requiring less approach trekking through the valley, perfect for climbers wanting a fast alpine progression.
Kang Yatse II + Dzo Jongo
Combine both summits from the Nimaling plateau in one continuous 13-day expedition for the ultimate 6,000-metre twin-summit challenge in Ladakh.