KANG YATSE II
Expedition OverviewThe climb
Rising above the high pastures of the Markha Valley, Kang Yatse II is Ladakh's benchmark six-thousand-metre ascent. At 6,250 metres, this glaciated dome offers an authentic introduction to high-altitude Himalayan mountaineering without requiring vertical technical rock climbing. The route suits trekkers stepping onto snow for the first time with crampons and ice axe, provided they have prior experience above 4,800 metres. You ascend through Buddhist villages and stark gorges before establishing base camp on the remote Nimaling plateau beneath the twin summits.
Your itinerary builds altitude steadily over seven days across the valley to ensure thorough acclimatisation before entering the high camps. The crux comes on summit day with an alpine start around midnight. You climb for ten to twelve hours across moraine and sustained thirty-five to forty degree névé snow slopes, gaining 1,150 vertical metres in sub-zero winds. Roped teams navigate the headwall using fixed lines where necessary, reaching the summit ridge by daybreak before descending safely to base camp before afternoon sun softens the snow.
Day by day
A progressive eleven-day acclimatisation curve following the Markha Valley, allowing steady physiological adaptation before the midnight summit push to 6,250 metres.
Sleeping altitude, night by night
Markha Valley progression curve to KANG YATSE II summit ridge
Arrive at Kushok Bakula Rimpochee Airport in Leh. Transfer to your hotel for mandatory complete rest to begin high-altitude acclimatisation. Keep physical activity minimal and drink plenty of fluids.
What's included
Everything required for self-sufficient alpine operations above 5,000 metres is provided, from high-altitude camping infrastructure to emergency oxygen.
Included
- IMF peak permit & environmental fee:Official Indian Mountaineering Foundation expedition climbing permit, peak royalties, and Hemis National Park conservation fees.
- Military-grade guide leadership:IMF/HAWS-qualified mountain leaders and high-altitude Sherpa guides at a strict 1:3 ratio.
- Base Camp & High Camp infrastructure:High-altitude 4-season alpine expedition tents, insulated sub-zero sleeping mats, and heated dining dome.
- Full nutritional expedition catering:Freshly cooked hot high-energy meals, trail lunches, continuous boiled drinking water, and high-altitude electrolyte replenishment.
- Group technical safety gear:High-strength static and dynamic fixed ropes, snow pickets, ice screws, and collective anchor hardware.
- Comprehensive medical emergency kit:Oxygen cylinders with demand valves, hyperbaric Gamow bag staging, digital pulse oximeters, and satellite SOS communicator.
Not included
- Mandatory mountaineering insurance:Personal travel, medical, and high-altitude search-and-rescue evacuation insurance (must cover up to 6,500 metres).
- Flights to and from Leh:Domestic commercial flights to Kushok Bakula Rimpochee Airport (IXL).
- Personal climbing hardware:Double mountaineering boots, 12-point crampons, technical ice axe, and climbing harness (available for rent at Leh Gear Locker).
- Personal sleeping system & outerwear:-30°C down sleeping bag and high-altitude down parka or suit (available for rent at Leh Gear Locker).
- Meals and drinks in Leh:Lunch and dinner in Leh during city acclimatisation days and personal beverages/snacks.
- Single room supplement:Optional private room accommodation in Leh hotel (available upon request at additional charge).
What to pack, and what you can rent
Pack personal moisture-wicking base layers, technical alpine outerwear, and cold-weather clothing using our comprehensive kit list. High-grade mountaineering hardware—including 6,000m/8,000m double boots, crampons, ice axes, and sub-zero down sleeping bags—can be fitted and rented directly from our Leh Base HQ locker.
Booking & Cancellation Policies
Payment
A 25% non-refundable deposit secures your place on the expedition roster. The remaining balance of 75% is due exactly 30 days prior to Day 1 arrival in Leh. Payments can be completed by bank transfer or card.
If you cancel
Cancellations made more than 45 days before departure receive a 75% refund of total fee. Between 44 and 30 days, 50% is refunded. Within 30 days of Day 1, fees are non-refundable as permits, rations, and logistics are committed.
If we cancel
If Ridge Recon Unit cancels an expedition before departure due to military border restrictions, force majeure, or regulatory closures, you receive a 100% refund or full transfer to any future expedition within 24 months.
Common questions
Specific operational guidance for Kang Yatse II (6,250m)
You need prior high-altitude trekking experience above 4,800 metres, such as Markha Valley or Rupin Pass. Previous crampon or ice axe experience is helpful but not mandatory, as we provide dedicated snowcraft training at Base Camp. Excellent cardiovascular endurance is essential.
Not sure this is your peak? Talk to a guide.
A fifteen-minute briefing will confirm whether your endurance, gear, and altitude experience align with Kang Yatse II before you commit.
If this one is not right
Compare elevation profiles, duration, and terrain demands across alternative Himalayan itineraries.
Friendship Peak
Lower altitude with no glacier travel on lower slopes. Ideal if you want your first non-technical summit with a shorter approach and milder conditions.
UT Kangri
Shorter, more direct approach from Rumtse without the multi-day Markha trek. A pure six-thousand-metre gateway peak focused strictly on alpine ascent.
Kang Yatse I & II Combo
Summits Kang Yatse II first as an acclimatisation peak before tackling the technical 50-degree ice headwall and knife-edge ridge of Kang Yatse I.