KANG YATSE I + II
Expedition OverviewThe climb
Traversing the entire glaciated crest of the Kang Yatse massif, this complete alpine expedition tackles both iconic summits in a single continuous campaign. At 6,250 metres and 6,400 metres respectively, Kang Yatse II provides deep physiological acclimatisation on open snow slopes before you face the formidable fifty-degree blue ice headwall of Kang Yatse I. The expedition suits highly experienced mountaineers with verified high-altitude competence and advanced fixed-line proficiency. You approach via the Markha Valley before establishing a technical high camp on the glaciated plateau.
Your itinerary builds progressively through six days in the Markha canyon, establishing advance base camp at 5,350 metres and high camp at 6,050 metres. The crux demands sustained endurance over two consecutive summit operations above six thousand metres. You climb the snow dome of Kang Yatse II first, followed by a midnight assault on the sheer fifty-degree ice headwall of Kang Yatse I. Roped teams front-point up fixed ropes and navigate corniced knife-edge ridges in sub-zero winds, achieving the ultimate high-altitude traverse in Ladakh before descending to Nimaling.
Day by day
A fourteen-day complete massif traverse in the Markha Valley, linking the 6,250-metre snow dome of Kang Yatse II with the 6,400-metre technical ice headwall of Kang Yatse I.
Sleeping altitude, night by night
Markha Valley progression curve to KANG YATSE I + II summit ridge
Arrive in Leh. Complete medical baseline evaluations, resting pulse oximetry recordings, and mandatory resting acclimatisation under the supervision of expedition doctors.
What's included
All technical climbing permits, dual-summit fixed ropes, elite mountain instructors, and complete multi-camp logistics are included from Leh to Leh.
Included
- Dual-summit technical IMF permits:Indian Mountaineering Foundation official climbing permits, peak royalties, and Hemis National Park environmental fees for both peaks.
- Ex-HAWS technical mountain guides:Elite certified mountain instructors and high-altitude climbing Sherpas at a strict 1:2 guide-to-climber ratio.
- High Camp (6,050m) & Base Camp infrastructure:Geodesic high-altitude mountain tents, sub-zero closed-cell foam insulation, and heated mess dome at Nimaling.
- Endurance high-altitude catering:Freshly cooked high-calorie meals, boil-in-the-bag high camp rations, trail energy mixes, and continuous boiled drinking water.
- Technical fixed ropes & snow anchors:800 metres of static fixed lines, dynamic climbing ropes, technical snow pickets, deadman anchors, and ice screws for the headwall.
- High-altitude emergency medical kit:Dual medical oxygen cylinders with demand valves, hyperbaric Gamow bag staging, dual oximeters, and satellite SOS communicator.
Not included
- Technical mountaineering insurance:Mandatory personal travel and medical policy providing search, rescue, and helicopter evacuation up to 6,500 metres.
- Flights to and from Leh:Domestic airfare between your departure airport and Kushok Bakula Rimpochee Airport (IXL) in Leh.
- Personal double boots & automatic crampons:Rigid technical mountaineering boots and 12-point automatic crampons (available to rent from our Leh Gear Locker).
- -30°C down sleeping bag & down suit:Extreme cold down sleeping bag and full high-altitude down suit or baffled jacket (available for hire).
- Technical ice tools & climbing harness:Pair of technical ice climbing axes, climbing harness, ascenders, and helmet (available to rent from our depot).
- Meals in Leh city:Lunches and dinners in Leh during city acclimatisation days and after returning from the mountains.
What to pack, and what you can rent
Pack personal moisture-wicking base layers, technical alpine outerwear, and cold-weather clothing using our comprehensive kit list. High-grade mountaineering hardware—including 6,000m/8,000m double boots, crampons, ice axes, and sub-zero down sleeping bags—can be fitted and rented directly from our Leh Base HQ locker.
Booking & Cancellation Policies
Payment
A 25% non-refundable deposit secures your place on the expedition roster. The remaining balance of 75% is due exactly 30 days prior to Day 1 arrival in Leh. Payments can be completed by bank transfer or card.
If you cancel
Cancellations made more than 45 days before departure receive a 75% refund of total fee. Between 44 and 30 days, 50% is refunded. Within 30 days of Day 1, fees are non-refundable as permits, rations, and logistics are committed.
If we cancel
If Ridge Recon Unit cancels an expedition before departure due to military border restrictions, force majeure, or regulatory closures, you receive a 100% refund or full transfer to any future expedition within 24 months.
Common questions
Specific operational guidance for Kang Yatse II (6,250m)
You must have a verified technical summit above 6,000 metres (such as Kang Yatse II, Island Peak, or Lobuche East) and formal basic mountaineering certification. Competence with jumar ascents, front-pointing on 50° ice, and high-altitude endurance is mandatory.
Ready for the ultimate high-altitude massif traverse?
Consult our veteran mountain directors to evaluate your technical climbing resume and gear suitability before committing.
If this one is not right
Compare elevation profiles, duration, and terrain demands across alternative Himalayan itineraries.
Kang Yatse I
Focuses purely on the technical 50-degree ice headwall of Kang Yatse I without the intermediate summit of Kang Yatse II.
Kang Yatse II + Dzo Jongo
A non-technical double-summit combo linking the glaciated dome of KY2 with the knife-edge ridge of Dzo Jongo. Ideal if you do not want steep ice walls.
Mount Kun
A full 7,000m technical siege in the Zanskar Range featuring a 65° blue ice wall. The next evolutionary step after completing the KY Massif.