UT KANGRI
Expedition OverviewThe climb
Located in the arid mountains south of Rumtse along the Leh-Manali highway, UT Kangri is Ladakh’s most accessible six-thousand-metre mountaineering objective. At 6,070 metres, this glaciated peak offers an unencumbered high-altitude ascent with gradual acclimatisation through the high valleys of Ladakh. The climb suits mountaineers who have completed high-altitude treks and want to test their technical crampon footing on an authentic glaciated peak. You acclimatise thoroughly in Leh and Chamkang Ri before moving to Rumtse to begin the alpine approach.
Your itinerary follows a ten-day protocol via Danglas Chan, establishing Base Camp at 5,200 metres with snowcraft drills and a dedicated contingency day. The crux arrives on summit morning with an alpine start around one in the morning into biting sub-zero darkness. You climb for eight to ten hours across steep scree and a thirty-five degree névé snow ridge requiring focused crampon technique and roped progression. Roped teams reach the 6,070-metre summit at sunrise before descending safely to Base Camp.
Day by day
A structured ten-day alpine progression from Rumtse, establishing base camp at 5,200 metres before the dawn assault on the 6,070-metre glaciated summit.
Sleeping altitude, night by night
Rumtse progression curve to UT KANGRI summit ridge
Arrive at Leh Airport. Transfer directly to the team hotel for mandatory rest. Begin hydration protocols and conduct initial baseline pulse oximetry monitoring.
What's included
All high-altitude mountaineering logistics from Leh arrival to summit return are covered, including IMF permits, camping gear, and emergency medical kit.
Included
- IMF climbing permits & environmental fees:Official Indian Mountaineering Foundation peak permit, forest department royalties, and local Ladakh environmental clearances.
- Qualified mountain leadership (1:3 ratio):Certified IMF/HAWS-qualified mountain leaders and high-altitude Sherpa guides maintaining a strict 1:3 ratio.
- Base Camp camping infrastructure:Four-season alpine expedition tents, insulated sleeping mats, and weather-resistant mess tent at Base Camp.
- Expedition catering & boiling water:Nutritious freshly prepared meals, trail packs, continuous boiled drinking water, and high-energy hot drinks at camp.
- Group technical safety gear:Dynamic climbing ropes, snow anchors, ice screws, and collective technical ascent rigging.
- Medical safety kit & oxygen backup:Emergency supplementary oxygen cylinder, digital pulse oximeters, first aid trauma kit, and satellite SOS device.
Not included
- Personal climbing boots & technical gear:Double mountaineering boots, crampons, ice axe, harness, and carabiners (rentable at Leh Base HQ).
- Mandatory mountaineering insurance:Travel insurance covering high-altitude mountaineering and emergency helicopter evacuation up to 6,500 metres.
- Flights to and from Leh:Airfare to Kushok Bakula Rimpochee Airport (IXL) in Leh.
- Guide and support staff gratuities:Customary tips pooled and shared directly among guides, cooks, and horsemen at trip completion.
- Single room supplement in Leh:Private room upgrades in Leh before and after the mountain expedition phase.
- Personal medical supplies:Personal prescriptions, preventative blister pads, Diamox, and personal medications.
What to pack, and what you can rent
Pack personal moisture-wicking base layers, technical alpine outerwear, and cold-weather clothing using our comprehensive kit list. High-grade mountaineering hardware—including 6,000m/8,000m double boots, crampons, ice axes, and sub-zero down sleeping bags—can be fitted and rented directly from our Leh Base HQ locker.
Booking & Cancellation Policies
Payment
A 25% non-refundable deposit confirms your roster placement. Balance is payable 45 days prior to arrival in Leh.
If you cancel
Cancellations outside 45 days forfeit deposit. 45–30 days forfeits 50% of fee. Under 30 days, no refund is granted.
If we cancel
If RRU cancels due to civil restrictions or severe political disruption, 100% of fees paid are credited to future departures.
Common questions
Specific operational guidance for Kang Yatse II (6,250m)
Yes. UT Kangri is an ideal first 6,000-metre peak for trekkers with good endurance and multi-day trekking experience above 4,000 metres. The route requires basic crampon walking and roped glacier progression rather than vertical ice climbing. Review our [training guide](/learn/training) for preparation.
Ready to stand atop your first six-thousand-metre peak?
Speak with an RRU mountain guide to review your fitness baseline and confirm dates for the upcoming season.
If this one is not right
Compare elevation profiles, duration, and terrain demands across alternative Himalayan itineraries.
Friendship Peak
A lower introductory objective in Himachal Pradesh ideal for learning fundamental snowcraft and crampon technique before stepping up to 6,000m altitude in Ladakh.
Yunam
A remote 6,111m peak near Baralacha La offering a non-technical scree ascent with vehicle access to 4,800m, suitable for climbers seeking a fast high-altitude stepping stone.
Kang Yatse II
For climbers seeking a full trekking approach through the Markha Valley before a sustained 40° snow dome push to 6,250 metres with sweeping views of the Karakoram.