MENTOK KANGRI
Expedition OverviewThe climb
Rising dramatically on the western shore of Lake Tso Moriri in the high Changthang plateau, Mentok Kangri is Ladakh’s most scenic six-thousand-metre mountaineering ascent. At 6,250 metres, this glaciated peak commands unhindered panoramic views across the turquoise waters of the lake and the distant Tibetan border ranges. The climb suits confident mountain trekkers stepping onto snow and ice for the first time with crampons and ice axes. You journey across the high Taglang La pass and Tsokar salt flats before establishing high camp at 5,350 metres.
Your itinerary stages progressive acclimatisation across four days, allowing your body to adapt to the dry Trans-Himalayan atmosphere before occupying high camp. The crux comes on summit day with an alpine start around one in the morning. You climb for ten to twelve hours across steep moraine boulders, ascending sustained thirty-five to forty degree névé snow slopes and an exposed summit ridge. Roped teams navigate the upper crevasse fields under headlamps, reaching the prayer-flagged summit at daybreak before descending safely back to the lake shores.
Day by day
An eleven-day expedition across the Changthang plateau, establishing high camp at 5,350 metres above Lake Tso Moriri before the dawn push to the 6,250-metre summit.
Sleeping altitude, night by night
Tso Moriri progression curve to MENTOK KANGRI summit ridge
Arrive at Kushok Bakula Rimpochee Airport. Transfer to your hotel for mandatory rest. Medical baseline measurements, pulse oximetry recording, and hydration protocols begin.
What's included
All Changthang inner-line permits, sub-zero expedition gear, and certified mountain guide leadership are provided for the entire eleven-day itinerary from Leh.
Included
- IMF climbing permits & border clearances:Indian Mountaineering Foundation peak permit, inner-line border clearances, and Changthang Wildlife Sanctuary environmental access fees.
- HAWS & IMF certified mountain guides:Military-trained mountain instructors and high-altitude Sherpa leaders operating at an elite 1:2 guide ratio with satellite radios.
- High Camp & Base Camp expedition tents:Heavy-duty 4-season geodesic mountain tents, closed-cell sub-zero foam mattresses, and weather-proof dining dome.
- Nutritious mountain catering throughout:Three hot freshly prepared meals daily, trail energy snacks, continuous boiled drinking water, and high-altitude electrolyte drinks.
- Climbing ropes & glacier safety gear:Dynamic climbing ropes, static fixed lines, snow stakes, deadman anchors, and ice screws for crossing the upper glacier.
- Emergency high-altitude medical kit:Medical oxygen cylinder with multi-stage regulator, hyperbaric Gamow chamber staging, pulse oximeters, and satellite SOS communicator.
Not included
- High-altitude mountaineering insurance:Mandatory personal travel and medical policy providing search, rescue, and helicopter evacuation up to 6,500 metres.
- Flights to and from Leh:Domestic airfare between your origin airport and Kushok Bakula Rimpochee Airport (IXL) in Leh.
- Personal mountaineering boots & crampons:Rigid mountaineering double boots and 12-point crampons (available to rent from our Leh Gear Locker).
- -25°C sleeping bag & down suit:High-loft down sleeping bag and alpine down jacket or suit (available to rent from our gear depot).
- Personal climbing hardware:Climbing helmet, mountaineering harness, and walking ice axe (available to rent from our locker).
- Meals in Leh city:Lunches and dinners in Leh during city acclimatisation days and after returning from Tso Moriri.
What to pack, and what you can rent
Pack personal moisture-wicking base layers, technical alpine outerwear, and cold-weather clothing using our comprehensive kit list. High-grade mountaineering hardware—including 6,000m/8,000m double boots, crampons, ice axes, and sub-zero down sleeping bags—can be fitted and rented directly from our Leh Base HQ locker.
Booking & Cancellation Policies
Payment
A 25% non-refundable deposit secures your place on the expedition roster. The remaining balance of 75% is due exactly 30 days prior to Day 1 arrival in Leh. Payments can be completed by bank transfer or card.
If you cancel
Cancellations made more than 45 days before departure receive a 75% refund of total fee. Between 44 and 30 days, 50% is refunded. Within 30 days of Day 1, fees are non-refundable as permits, rations, and logistics are committed.
If we cancel
If Ridge Recon Unit cancels an expedition before departure due to military border restrictions, force majeure, or regulatory closures, you receive a 100% refund or full transfer to any future expedition within 24 months.
Common questions
Specific operational guidance for Kang Yatse II (6,250m)
You must have prior experience on high Himalayan treks reaching at least 4,800 metres, such as Markha Valley or Rupin Pass. Previous crampon use is beneficial, but our guides provide full snowcraft and crampon drills at Karzok before the summit attempt.
Ready to stand above the turquoise waters of Tso Moriri?
Consult our veteran mountain guides to evaluate your previous trekking background, boot choices, and departure dates.
If this one is not right
Compare elevation profiles, duration, and terrain demands across alternative Himalayan itineraries.
Kang Yatse II
A matching 6,250m elevation approached through the classic Markha Valley. Pick this if you prefer a traditional valley trek over high-altitude lake drives.
Chamser Kangri
Located across the lake, climbing to 6,622 metres. Offers a significantly higher altitude challenge for climbers with previous 6,000m summits.
Dzo Jongo
A sharper knife-edge ridge climb located in Markha Valley. Ideal if you want a narrower, more exposed summit arête.