LUNGSER KANGRI
Expedition OverviewThe climb
Rising to 6,666 metres above the Changthang plateau near the Tibetan frontier, Lungser Kangri is the apex of the Rupshu region and the highest summit in eastern Ladakh. Guarded by sweeping glacier moraines and a steep forty-eight degree ice headwall, this giant demands respect and rigorous alpine preparation. The objective suits seasoned high-altitude mountaineers who have previously summitted a six-thousand-metre peak and possess solid crampon and fixed-line competence. You journey on the classic Rumtse wilderness traverse before establishing Skurchu Base Camp and Advance Camp.
Your itinerary follows a fifteen-day wilderness traverse from Rumtse across five high mountain passes to the turquoise waters of Lake Tso Moriri. After establishing Skurchu Base Camp and Advance Camp at 5,630 metres, the crux arrives on summit morning with an alpine start at midnight into biting sub-zero winds. You climb for eleven to thirteen hours across fractured ice fields and a sustained forty-eight degree névé headwall, gaining 1,036 vertical metres. Roped teams cross the crevassed upper glacier, reaching the 6,666-metre summit before descending safely back to Peldo.
Day by day
A fifteen-day wilderness traverse from Rumtse across five passes to Lake Tso Moriri, establishing Advance Camp at 5,630 metres before pushing to the 6,666-metre summit.
Sleeping altitude, night by night
Tso Moriri progression curve to LUNGSER KANGRI summit ridge
Drive south from Leh along the Indus Valley to the staging village of Rumtse. Complete medical baseline evaluations and acclimatisation walks along the river canyon before camping.
What's included
All Changthang inner-line clearances, extreme-cold alpine gear, and military-grade guide leadership are provided for self-sufficient operations up to 6,666 metres.
Included
- IMF climbing permits & border clearances:Indian Mountaineering Foundation peak permit, Ministry of Home Affairs clearances, and Changthang Wildlife Sanctuary access documentation.
- HAWS & IMF certified technical guides:Military-trained mountain leaders with extensive high-altitude ice experience operating at an elite 1:2 guide ratio.
- Advance Camp (5,630m) & Base Camp setup:Geodesic high-altitude mountain tents engineered for Changthang gale-force winds, closed-cell foam floor pads, and dining dome.
- High-altitude endurance catering:Nutrient-dense hot meals, high camp boil-in-the-bag rations, energy trail snacks, continuous boiled water, and electrolytes.
- Fixed ropes, snow stakes & ice screws:Static fixed ropes, dynamic climbing ropes, technical snow pickets, and titanium ice screws for the 48-degree summit headwall.
- Comprehensive emergency medical kit:Medical oxygen cylinders with multi-stage regulators, hyperbaric Gamow chamber staging, dual oximeters, and satellite SOS device.
Not included
- Extreme-altitude mountaineering insurance:Mandatory personal travel and medical policy providing search, rescue, and helicopter evacuation up to 7,000 metres.
- Personal climbing boots and technical kit:Double mountaineering boots, technical crampons, climbing harness, and ice axe (available to rent from our Leh gear depot).
- Travel to and from Leh:Domestic airfares to Kushok Bakula Rimpochee Airport (IXL) and personal transit prior to the expedition commencement.
- Personal sub-zero down suit & clothing:Minus forty-degree down jacket, windproof shell layers, thermal underwear, glacier glasses, and extreme-cold mittens.
- Hospital medical expenses & evacuation fees:Direct hospital charges, physician fees, and emergency rescue billing not covered by personal insurance.
- Discretionary tips for guides and camp crew:Customary gratuities for local mountain guides, high-altitude porters, kitchen staff, and horsemen.
What to pack, and what you can rent
Pack personal moisture-wicking base layers, technical alpine outerwear, and cold-weather clothing using our comprehensive kit list. High-grade mountaineering hardware—including 6,000m/8,000m double boots, crampons, ice axes, and sub-zero down sleeping bags—can be fitted and rented directly from our Leh Base HQ locker.
Booking & Cancellation Policies
Payment
A 25% non-refundable deposit confirms your roster placement. Balance is payable 45 days prior to arrival in Leh.
If you cancel
Cancellations outside 45 days forfeit deposit. 45–30 days forfeits 50% of fee. Under 30 days, no refund is granted.
If we cancel
Full refund or transfer to another expedition if cancelled due to logistical or geopolitical permit constraints.
Common questions
Specific operational guidance for Kang Yatse II (6,250m)
Our guided expeditions achieve an eighty per cent summit success rate. Extreme cold, jet-stream wind gales across the Changthang plateau, and physiological altitude acclimatisation represent the primary limiting variables.
Ready to conquer the highest peak of Changthang?
Consult directly with our veteran military instructors to review your high-altitude experience and reserve your roster spot.
If this one is not right
Compare elevation profiles, duration, and terrain demands across alternative Himalayan itineraries.
Chamser Kangri
The companion peak across the valley standing at 6,622 metres, offering a slightly shorter 14-day traverse itinerary with an identical wilderness approach through the Changthang plateau.
Mentok Kangri
A lower 6,250m peak on the western shore of Lake Tso Moriri, providing a shorter 11-day snow ascent ideal for climbers stepping into the Changthang region for the first time.
Mount Kun
A technical 7,000-metre giant in western Ladakh featuring fixed-rope ice walls and heavy glacier siege tactics for climbers preparing for 8,000m peaks.