MT. NUN
Expedition OverviewThe climb
Reigning as the highest summit in Ladakh and the crown of the Zanskar Range, Mount Nun is an internationally renowned seven-thousand-metre technical objective. At 7,135 metres, this imposing pyramid rises sharply above the Suru Valley, demanding superior ice craft, cold tolerance, and deep mental resolve. Guarded by heavily crevassed icefalls, a sustained sixty-degree northwest face ice headwall, and knife-edge summit arêtes, Nun represents a pure alpine test. The climb suits mountaineers who have completed high-altitude courses and summited technical peaks above 6,400 metres.
Your expedition follows a fourteen-day alpine siege protocol from the Tangole roadhead, establishing three high camps across the glaciated terrain. The crux arrives between Camp 1 and Camp 2 with a punishing sixty-degree blue ice headwall requiring continuous front-pointing on fixed lines under heavy packs. On summit morning, roped teams depart at midnight, climbing for twelve to fourteen hours across wind-scoured snow flutings in temperatures below minus thirty-five degrees. Gaining 635 vertical metres from high camp, you reach the 7,135-metre apex before safely rappelling to camp.
Day by day
A fourteen-day alpine siege from Tangole via the 60° northwest face headwall and glaciated ridge to reach the 7,135-metre summit of Mount Nun.
Sleeping altitude, night by night
Suru Valley progression curve to MT. NUN summit ridge
Drive west from Leh along the Indus and Suru valleys past Kargil to reach Kumathang. Settle into expedition camp and conduct baseline resting pulse oximetry and vitals evaluations.
What's included
Full expedition logistics for a technical 7,000-metre ascent are covered, including IMF permits, fixed rope hardware, and high-altitude emergency safety gear.
Included
- IMF climbing permits & environmental fees:Official Indian Mountaineering Foundation peak permit, liaison officer royalties, and local Suru Valley environmental clearances.
- Veteran military mountain instructors (1:2 ratio):Decorated Ex-HAWS instructors and certified UIAGM/IMF high-altitude Sherpas maintaining an unyielding 1:2 guide-to-climber ratio.
- High-altitude camp infrastructure:Four-season mountain tents at Camps 1, 2, and 3, insulated sub-zero sleeping pads, and heated mess dome at Base Camp.
- Technical fixed rope hardware:Heavy-gauge dynamic and static climbing ropes, snow pickets, ice screws, deadmen anchors, and mechanical ascender rigging.
- Full expedition nutrition & catering:Fresh nutritious Base Camp dining, high-calorie dehydrated high-camp ration packs, hot electrolytes, and boiled snow water.
- Emergency medical & oxygen apparatus:High-flow supplementary oxygen sets with Russian regulators for emergency use, Gamow hyperbaric chamber, and Garmin inReach SOS.
Not included
- Personal climbing boots & technical kit:Triple mountaineering boots, technical ice axes, crampons, harnesses, and -40°C down suits (available for rent at Leh Base HQ).
- Mandatory high-altitude medical evacuation insurance:Insurance policy covering technical helicopter evacuation up to 7,500 metres and emergency medical hospitalisation.
- Domestic and international flights:Air travel to and from Kushok Bakula Rimpochee Airport (IXL) in Leh.
- Personal summit bonus tips:Customary gratuity pool distributed directly to high-altitude climbing Sherpas, base camp cooks, and logistical porters.
- Single room supplement in Leh:Private room upgrades in Leh before and after the mountain expedition phase.
- Personal medical prescriptions:Individual supplies of Diamox, personal antibiotics, blister care, and preventative medications.
What to pack, and what you can rent
Pack personal moisture-wicking base layers, technical alpine outerwear, and cold-weather clothing using our comprehensive kit list. High-grade mountaineering hardware—including 6,000m/8,000m double boots, crampons, ice axes, and sub-zero down sleeping bags—can be fitted and rented directly from our Leh Base HQ locker.
Booking & Cancellation Policies
Payment
A 25% non-refundable deposit confirms your roster placement. Balance is payable 45 days prior to arrival in Leh.
If you cancel
Cancellations outside 45 days forfeit deposit. 45–30 days forfeits 50% of fee. Under 30 days, no refund is granted.
If we cancel
If RRU cancels due to civil restrictions or severe political disruption, 100% of fees paid are credited to future departures.
Common questions
Specific operational guidance for Kang Yatse II (6,250m)
Mount Nun requires prior ascents of technical 6,000m peaks like Kang Yatse I, Mentok Kangri, or Chamser Kangri. You must be completely proficient ascending and rappelling 60° hard blue ice on fixed lines under heavy packs. Review our [alpine training guide](/learn/training) for technical prerequisites.
Ready to climb Ladakh’s highest seven-thousand-metre peak?
Speak directly with our veteran Himalayan expedition instructors to evaluate your technical climbing resume and team placement.
If this one is not right
Compare elevation profiles, duration, and terrain demands across alternative Himalayan itineraries.
Mount Kun
Twin peak to Nun at 7,077m, Kun offers a classic 14-day siege highlighted by the famous 65° blue ice headwall and high snow plateau for climbers building towards 8,000m peaks.
Kang Yatse I
An ideal intermediate step to 7,000m climbing, featuring a 50° technical ice headwall and high camp at 6,400m to test technical front-pointing in a 14-day window.
Mt. Kamet
For experienced 7,000m summiteers, Kamet stands at 7,756m in Garhwal, offering a massive 26-day siege via Meade Col demanding extreme endurance and tactical mountaincraft.